Rann of Kutch/Gir Nature Camp Report
No gallery found.
The background
The winter bird migration season begins in about November when many birds in the northern climes move south to escape the harshness of winter. This makes this period a good time for bird watching in tropical regions, so when the West Bengal office of the WWF-India requested for a camp for 20 subscribers, Gujarat was chosen as the camp area. A combined camp was planned here, covering two sanctuaries: the Rann of Kutch and Gir, each known for an endemic, flagship animal species – the Asiatic Wild Ass and the Asiatic Lion respectively. The camp was organized and conducted by the Field Director-Nature Camps (WWF-India), Mr. Preston Ahimaz.
The sanctuaries
The Rann of Kutch Wild Ass Sanctuary is the largest sanctuary in India and a Ramsar site, sprawling over a 4,953 sq. kms area spread out in the districts of Surendranagar, Banasakantha, Patan, Kutch and Rajkot of the state of Gujarat in India.
The Rann is a unique place comprising of mudflats, grasslands, rocky and thorn scrub, lakes and marshes. This immense flatland is punctuated by some 364 hills and highlands called “bet” the largest of which is 84 sq. kms in area. These elevated points provide sanctuary to the wildlife of the Rann during the monsoonal inundation caused by the combined windblown waters of the Arabian Sea and monsoon river discharge, which converts the area into a shallow mini sea. By the onset of winter, the water dries up and the mudflat is transformed into a sea of sand and mud, which allows for jeep safaris to see the wildlife.
The entry of sea water over such a vast area renders the subsoil water high in salt content, supporting a flourishing salt industry which becomes active during the dry months, and provides livelihood to thousands of people.
The Gir Lion Sanctuary is is the only and last refuge for the Asiatic lion which once ranged from Iran across the continent to China, but has been exterminated from elsewhere in its entire former range. Situated at the southern part of the Gujarat peninsular in the Junagadh and Amreli districts, the park stretches over an area of 1,421 square kilometers, with another 470 square kilometers. buffer zone, comprising largely of dry deciduous forests, flatter in the southern parts and hilly in the northern.
Gir was a heavily hunted area like all natural areas, the initial scourge being unleashed by the then Maharajahs and later on, by the British- both sportsmen and visiting dignitaries- a sickening saga of extermination that took the lions to the brink of extinction. However, when the Nawab of Junagadh invited Lord Curzon for a lion shoot, as was the questionable custom in those days, the British dignitary, instead of accepting the offer, suggested a halt to the carnage in the face of the pathetic numbers of remaining lions (2 dozen), which the Nawab readily did, saving the lions in Gir while they went extinct in the rest of Asia. Gir was declared a lion sanctuary in 1965 and a National park in 1974.
A large number of the Maldhari settlers who used to raise milch cattle in “nesses” within the park have been moved out as part of a scheme to reduce disturbance in the park, but some still remain.
The Camp
Day 1
The campers, now reduced to only 11 members, were picked up from Ahmedabad Railway Station on the morning of the 26th of November, where they congregated at a pre-designated spot and were ushered into a waiting mini bus contracted for the journey to the Rann campsite. A three-hour drive later, the campers reached Zainabad, where the campsite, the rustically charming Desert Coursers resort, was located. After cottages were allotted, the campers sat for their first meal at the “dining hall” of the resort, a large thatched, rectangular gazebo of sorts, where they were joined by the owner of the resort, Dhanraj Mallick, descended from the Nawab Zainkhan, after whom the town of Zainabad was named. After a short discourse with Mr. Mallick on the sanctuary and the history of the resort, the campers relaxed / did some birding around the resort.
That evening, the campers climbed into a Tata mini-truck safari convertible and trundled off to a possible rendezvous with flamingoes at a large jheel, located near the farm owned by Dhanraj Mallick’s father. On the way, the group passed through villages where they got a glimpse of rustic Gujarati life, and noticed that rosy starlings were as common as house mynahs here, frequenting the garbage heaps and discarded hay and straw piles. All the many ponds and small jheels along the way had their retinue of waterbirds , from coots through egrets to the lone purple heron. Collared and little brown doves were common, shrikes, rollers and harriers showed themselves now and then and a covey of sandgrouse was seen on some vacant fields. At the targetted jheel, to the disappointment of the campers, no flamingoes were to be seen, although other waterbirds were present. As this was the beginning of one part of the Rann, the campers strained to see if they could spot the wild asses making their way to the cultivated fields as they did every night for an orgy of feasting, but could not spot anything in the fading light. The drive back to campsite was uneventful, aside from getting a little lost in the maze of little village holdings that sprinkled the area.
That night, after dinner and a slide show, the campers took a short walk around the campsite to check for nocturnal life of the region and spotted several birds, mainly collared doves, rooting in the thorny tree canopy. Also seen were many sleeping garden lizards, hugging thin twigs close to the ground in slumber.
Day 2
Rising early in the morning, the campers had a quick breakfast and headed out for their first safari of the Rann itself. The group first halted at the Forest Office for obtaining permits and paying sanctuary fees and then went around the informative interpretation centre which provided interesting glimpses of the Rann and its surroundings.
Entering the Rann, the campers were first greeted by the sight of a group of Demoiselle cranes which maintained a discreet distance between themselves and the vehicle, moving away everytime the vehicle intruded on their flight distance. Finally a large flock of the birds came into sight which, after allowing them to be viewed for a while, suddenly took to the air en masse, presenting a magnificent sight. The party carried on and came upon their first sighting of the coveted wild ass – a mother and her foal – standing some distance apart. On being approached, they started to walk away with the foal finally breaking into a trot to catch up with its mother.
Leaving the twosome to themselves, the party drove on into the vastness of the Rann, and came upon another group of asses, and soon upon yet another. Here everyone had their fill of taking photos and observing the beautiful tawny-and-tan animals, which were large and healthy – a far cry from their puny, downtrodden domestic relatives. Further afield, a small group of nilgai were seen – all females and young; brown, ungainly, horse-like antelope with black-and-white socks, which broke out of the thorny shade in which they were feeding and galloped away, gamboling as they went. Further on, a bachelor group of steely blue-grey males were encountered, which also moved away on being approached. A drive later, the group reached a large jheel – and there, at last, were the dainty Greater flamingoes, slender necks and legs sprouting from a feathery bundle of a body with grotesque, downward-bent beaks and brilliant orange-red underwings which showed when an individual flapped its wings. After observing the birds and patiently stalking them to get close photographs, the party jumped into the convertible and bumped back across the dusty mudflats to camp. After dinner, another slide show was held, following which the group repaired to their cottages for the night.
Day 3
After a hearty breakfast, departure photographs and goodbyes all round, the group left the Desert Coursers campsite with a packed lunch (courtesy Desert Coursers) and embarked upon the long drive to the southern edge of the Gujarat peninsular, toward the pocket of land of the legendary Asiatic Lion.
After settling in at the Anil Farmhouse (which is a mango orchard-turned-resort at Gir), the campers had tea at the dining gazebo which overlooks the Hiran river, followed by another slide show and then retired for the night.
The next morning, after breakfast, the group went for a walk along the bank of the river, which sometimes turns up crocodiles. Several birds, including a large, loose flock of red-wattled lapwings in the shallows, were seen. After lunch, the party got into two pre-arranged, open gypsies for the safari into Gir, which, everyone hoped, would yield lions.
There are several fixed routes through Gir which are laid out for tourist rides, all approximately the same length, and any of these may be chosen. The one chosen for the current groups began before the main entrance of the sanctuary, veering off to the left and into the bush. Once past the entry check post, the campers kept their eyes peeled for wildlife. Gir’s largely dry deciduous habitat has large open areas and low vegetation, although there are patches of dense forest and scattered large trees. Birds and regular game like spotted deer were easily seen, but the lions appeared to be absconding. Then, after the turnaround point, the excited gathering of several vehicles vying for postions just off the road informed that the quarry had been spotted. Racing to the spot, the campers saw a large, tawny bulk bundled up on the open ground about 30 metres from the road – a large male lion! Totally oblivious of the excited, noisy tourists a mere leap away from him, the lion lay with his back to the people, head on the ground, and only the occasional upward lash of his rod-like tail gave any indication that he was aware of the fuss he was creating. The vying for positions by the vehicles led to some leaving the road which brought bellow from a guard who had suddenly appeared and the jeeps scrambled back to the road, much to the disappointment of the tourists within them who wanted a better view of the king. After some of the cars had left, continued encouragement from the guide caused the lion to raise his head and look over his shoulder momentarily – cameras clicked wildly – after which he dropped his head back to his old “go to the devil” position. Elated by what they saw, the campers continued along the path, one vehicle ahead of the other, when another lion was spotted. Again the cat was lying off the road, this time some distance away and the vehicles had to go a little off the road in order to sight it. Again, the lion was lying with its back to the cars, and the apparent lack of a mane purported it to be a female, which made it surprising to find her alone. After the usual encouragement, the cat got up, turned around, and sat down again, but this time facing the tourists. Now one could see the beginnings of a mane under its chin revealing its sex – another male. Obviously a young animal, his mane had not yet grown fully, but he was big and looked as awesome as the older male seen earlier.
By now it had got late, nearly closing time, and the guide was pleading desperately for the campers to stop gaping at and photographing the lion so that he could get everyone out from there. The Forest Department here is very strict about timings and the guide was afraid of being punished or even suspended. Tearing themselves away from the lion, the campers braced themselves in the gypsies for a wild ride in order to get out of the gate on time. At the gate, the guide apologetically took the blasting from the guard for being late, blaming the driver whom he accused of being “new” and hence slow.
Reaching the resort, the campers washed up, had dinner and retired for the night.
Day 4
Early next morning, the group was ready for the morning safari. Jumping into the open gypsies, they headed off to another route, this time entering from the main gate. The morning atmosphere made the ride bracing and crisp, and while the group saw nilgai, spotted deer, wild boar, peacock and other birds, they anxiously kept their eyes peeled for the prize sightings of a lion pride. Well after the turn-around point, no lions were in sight, and the group in the first gypsy just missed a leopard which crossed the road and was seen by two foreigners in a vehicle up ahead. Stopping to take photographs and watch birds, the group fell behind a little and by the time they caught up with the two foreigners, they saw a lioness walking off into the bush. She had been lolling by the road when the foreigners’ vehicle came upon her, causing her to walk off. Being a female, she must have had her pride nearby but no sign of the other members was seen. The rest of the safari yielded no more lions and the campers left the sanctuary, a little disappointed at not having seen a pride with cubs.
Just outside the main entrance to the sanctuary is the Forest Dept. visitor’s complex which houses rooms, a cafeteria, interpretation centre and a small crocodile breeding centre; this was given a going-over by the campers prior to returning to campsite. The interpretation centre was well done with interesting information, illustrated in an attractive manner, but the crocodile breeding centre was a most depressing place – overgrown, badly maintained and the crocodiles in there were a most unenviable lot. Most Forest personnel today are trained in crocodile management, so it was surprising to see this centre in such a sorry state.
Returning to the campsite, the campers had a late breakfast, after which a short walk along the river bank was made again, with the usual sightings of black ibis, lapwings, sandpipers, pied kingfishers and other birds. After lunch, most of the campers preferred to take a nap which they did with gusto, while a few hardier ones roamed the campus and river bank searching for subjects to photograph or do some bird watching.
By late afternoon, the transport arrived at the resort to transfer the group to Junagadh, from where the train to Ahmedabad was boarded. Early next morning, the train pulled into Ahmedabad, from where the campers retired to hotels to pass the time until their departure to Kolkota, bringing the camp to an end.
The winter bird migration season begins in about November when many birds in the northern climes move south to escape the harshness of winter. This makes this period a good time for bird watching in tropical regions, so when the West Bengal office of the WWF-India requested for a camp for 20 subscribers, Gujarat was chosen as the camp area. A combined camp was planned here, covering two sanctuaries: the Rann of Kutch and Gir, each known for an endemic, flagship animal species – the Asiatic Wild Ass and the Asiatic Lion respectively. The camp was organized and conducted by the Field Director-Nature Camps (WWF-India), Mr. Preston Ahimaz.
The sanctuaries
The Rann of Kutch Wild Ass Sanctuary is the largest sanctuary in India and a Ramsar site, sprawling over a 4,953 sq. kms area spread out in the districts of Surendranagar, Banasakantha, Patan, Kutch and Rajkot of the state of Gujarat in India.
The Rann is a unique place comprising of mudflats, grasslands, rocky and thorn scrub, lakes and marshes. This immense flatland is punctuated by some 364 hills and highlands called “bet” the largest of which is 84 sq. kms in area. These elevated points provide sanctuary to the wildlife of the Rann during the monsoonal inundation caused by the combined windblown waters of the Arabian Sea and monsoon river discharge, which converts the area into a shallow mini sea. By the onset of winter, the water dries up and the mudflat is transformed into a sea of sand and mud, which allows for jeep safaris to see the wildlife.
The entry of sea water over such a vast area renders the subsoil water high in salt content, supporting a flourishing salt industry which becomes active during the dry months, and provides livelihood to thousands of people.
The Gir Lion Sanctuary is is the only and last refuge for the Asiatic lion which once ranged from Iran across the continent to China, but has been exterminated from elsewhere in its entire former range. Situated at the southern part of the Gujarat peninsular in the Junagadh and Amreli districts, the park stretches over an area of 1,421 square kilometers, with another 470 square kilometers. buffer zone, comprising largely of dry deciduous forests, flatter in the southern parts and hilly in the northern.
Gir was a heavily hunted area like all natural areas, the initial scourge being unleashed by the then Maharajahs and later on, by the British- both sportsmen and visiting dignitaries- a sickening saga of extermination that took the lions to the brink of extinction. However, when the Nawab of Junagadh invited Lord Curzon for a lion shoot, as was the questionable custom in those days, the British dignitary, instead of accepting the offer, suggested a halt to the carnage in the face of the pathetic numbers of remaining lions (2 dozen), which the Nawab readily did, saving the lions in Gir while they went extinct in the rest of Asia. Gir was declared a lion sanctuary in 1965 and a National park in 1974.
A large number of the Maldhari settlers who used to raise milch cattle in “nesses” within the park have been moved out as part of a scheme to reduce disturbance in the park, but some still remain.
The Camp
Day 1
The campers, now reduced to only 11 members, were picked up from Ahmedabad Railway Station on the morning of the 26th of November, where they congregated at a pre-designated spot and were ushered into a waiting mini bus contracted for the journey to the Rann campsite. A three-hour drive later, the campers reached Zainabad, where the campsite, the rustically charming Desert Coursers resort, was located. After cottages were allotted, the campers sat for their first meal at the “dining hall” of the resort, a large thatched, rectangular gazebo of sorts, where they were joined by the owner of the resort, Dhanraj Mallick, descended from the Nawab Zainkhan, after whom the town of Zainabad was named. After a short discourse with Mr. Mallick on the sanctuary and the history of the resort, the campers relaxed / did some birding around the resort.
That evening, the campers climbed into a Tata mini-truck safari convertible and trundled off to a possible rendezvous with flamingoes at a large jheel, located near the farm owned by Dhanraj Mallick’s father. On the way, the group passed through villages where they got a glimpse of rustic Gujarati life, and noticed that rosy starlings were as common as house mynahs here, frequenting the garbage heaps and discarded hay and straw piles. All the many ponds and small jheels along the way had their retinue of waterbirds , from coots through egrets to the lone purple heron. Collared and little brown doves were common, shrikes, rollers and harriers showed themselves now and then and a covey of sandgrouse was seen on some vacant fields. At the targetted jheel, to the disappointment of the campers, no flamingoes were to be seen, although other waterbirds were present. As this was the beginning of one part of the Rann, the campers strained to see if they could spot the wild asses making their way to the cultivated fields as they did every night for an orgy of feasting, but could not spot anything in the fading light. The drive back to campsite was uneventful, aside from getting a little lost in the maze of little village holdings that sprinkled the area.
That night, after dinner and a slide show, the campers took a short walk around the campsite to check for nocturnal life of the region and spotted several birds, mainly collared doves, rooting in the thorny tree canopy. Also seen were many sleeping garden lizards, hugging thin twigs close to the ground in slumber.
Day 2
Rising early in the morning, the campers had a quick breakfast and headed out for their first safari of the Rann itself. The group first halted at the Forest Office for obtaining permits and paying sanctuary fees and then went around the informative interpretation centre which provided interesting glimpses of the Rann and its surroundings.
Entering the Rann, the campers were first greeted by the sight of a group of Demoiselle cranes which maintained a discreet distance between themselves and the vehicle, moving away everytime the vehicle intruded on their flight distance. Finally a large flock of the birds came into sight which, after allowing them to be viewed for a while, suddenly took to the air en masse, presenting a magnificent sight. The party carried on and came upon their first sighting of the coveted wild ass – a mother and her foal – standing some distance apart. On being approached, they started to walk away with the foal finally breaking into a trot to catch up with its mother.
Leaving the twosome to themselves, the party drove on into the vastness of the Rann, and came upon another group of asses, and soon upon yet another. Here everyone had their fill of taking photos and observing the beautiful tawny-and-tan animals, which were large and healthy – a far cry from their puny, downtrodden domestic relatives. Further afield, a small group of nilgai were seen – all females and young; brown, ungainly, horse-like antelope with black-and-white socks, which broke out of the thorny shade in which they were feeding and galloped away, gamboling as they went. Further on, a bachelor group of steely blue-grey males were encountered, which also moved away on being approached. A drive later, the group reached a large jheel – and there, at last, were the dainty Greater flamingoes, slender necks and legs sprouting from a feathery bundle of a body with grotesque, downward-bent beaks and brilliant orange-red underwings which showed when an individual flapped its wings. After observing the birds and patiently stalking them to get close photographs, the party jumped into the convertible and bumped back across the dusty mudflats to camp. After dinner, another slide show was held, following which the group repaired to their cottages for the night.
Day 3
After a hearty breakfast, departure photographs and goodbyes all round, the group left the Desert Coursers campsite with a packed lunch (courtesy Desert Coursers) and embarked upon the long drive to the southern edge of the Gujarat peninsular, toward the pocket of land of the legendary Asiatic Lion.
After settling in at the Anil Farmhouse (which is a mango orchard-turned-resort at Gir), the campers had tea at the dining gazebo which overlooks the Hiran river, followed by another slide show and then retired for the night.
The next morning, after breakfast, the group went for a walk along the bank of the river, which sometimes turns up crocodiles. Several birds, including a large, loose flock of red-wattled lapwings in the shallows, were seen. After lunch, the party got into two pre-arranged, open gypsies for the safari into Gir, which, everyone hoped, would yield lions.
There are several fixed routes through Gir which are laid out for tourist rides, all approximately the same length, and any of these may be chosen. The one chosen for the current groups began before the main entrance of the sanctuary, veering off to the left and into the bush. Once past the entry check post, the campers kept their eyes peeled for wildlife. Gir’s largely dry deciduous habitat has large open areas and low vegetation, although there are patches of dense forest and scattered large trees. Birds and regular game like spotted deer were easily seen, but the lions appeared to be absconding. Then, after the turnaround point, the excited gathering of several vehicles vying for postions just off the road informed that the quarry had been spotted. Racing to the spot, the campers saw a large, tawny bulk bundled up on the open ground about 30 metres from the road – a large male lion! Totally oblivious of the excited, noisy tourists a mere leap away from him, the lion lay with his back to the people, head on the ground, and only the occasional upward lash of his rod-like tail gave any indication that he was aware of the fuss he was creating. The vying for positions by the vehicles led to some leaving the road which brought bellow from a guard who had suddenly appeared and the jeeps scrambled back to the road, much to the disappointment of the tourists within them who wanted a better view of the king. After some of the cars had left, continued encouragement from the guide caused the lion to raise his head and look over his shoulder momentarily – cameras clicked wildly – after which he dropped his head back to his old “go to the devil” position. Elated by what they saw, the campers continued along the path, one vehicle ahead of the other, when another lion was spotted. Again the cat was lying off the road, this time some distance away and the vehicles had to go a little off the road in order to sight it. Again, the lion was lying with its back to the cars, and the apparent lack of a mane purported it to be a female, which made it surprising to find her alone. After the usual encouragement, the cat got up, turned around, and sat down again, but this time facing the tourists. Now one could see the beginnings of a mane under its chin revealing its sex – another male. Obviously a young animal, his mane had not yet grown fully, but he was big and looked as awesome as the older male seen earlier.
By now it had got late, nearly closing time, and the guide was pleading desperately for the campers to stop gaping at and photographing the lion so that he could get everyone out from there. The Forest Department here is very strict about timings and the guide was afraid of being punished or even suspended. Tearing themselves away from the lion, the campers braced themselves in the gypsies for a wild ride in order to get out of the gate on time. At the gate, the guide apologetically took the blasting from the guard for being late, blaming the driver whom he accused of being “new” and hence slow.
Reaching the resort, the campers washed up, had dinner and retired for the night.
Day 4
Early next morning, the group was ready for the morning safari. Jumping into the open gypsies, they headed off to another route, this time entering from the main gate. The morning atmosphere made the ride bracing and crisp, and while the group saw nilgai, spotted deer, wild boar, peacock and other birds, they anxiously kept their eyes peeled for the prize sightings of a lion pride. Well after the turn-around point, no lions were in sight, and the group in the first gypsy just missed a leopard which crossed the road and was seen by two foreigners in a vehicle up ahead. Stopping to take photographs and watch birds, the group fell behind a little and by the time they caught up with the two foreigners, they saw a lioness walking off into the bush. She had been lolling by the road when the foreigners’ vehicle came upon her, causing her to walk off. Being a female, she must have had her pride nearby but no sign of the other members was seen. The rest of the safari yielded no more lions and the campers left the sanctuary, a little disappointed at not having seen a pride with cubs.
Just outside the main entrance to the sanctuary is the Forest Dept. visitor’s complex which houses rooms, a cafeteria, interpretation centre and a small crocodile breeding centre; this was given a going-over by the campers prior to returning to campsite. The interpretation centre was well done with interesting information, illustrated in an attractive manner, but the crocodile breeding centre was a most depressing place – overgrown, badly maintained and the crocodiles in there were a most unenviable lot. Most Forest personnel today are trained in crocodile management, so it was surprising to see this centre in such a sorry state.
Returning to the campsite, the campers had a late breakfast, after which a short walk along the river bank was made again, with the usual sightings of black ibis, lapwings, sandpipers, pied kingfishers and other birds. After lunch, most of the campers preferred to take a nap which they did with gusto, while a few hardier ones roamed the campus and river bank searching for subjects to photograph or do some bird watching.
By late afternoon, the transport arrived at the resort to transfer the group to Junagadh, from where the train to Ahmedabad was boarded. Early next morning, the train pulled into Ahmedabad, from where the campers retired to hotels to pass the time until their departure to Kolkota, bringing the camp to an end.
